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Van Stadens | Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth)
Matt Grunewald on the FA of Mega Rumble (8A) at Prophet's Cave in 2020
Mervyn Chappel & Wallace Paterson on the first accent of Nearly Friday in 1959. This is the first climbing route in Van Stadens Photo courtesy Mike Streeter collection.
The steepness... Jay-d Muller at Prophet's Cave 2020. Photo courtesy Matt Grunewald.
Juan-dray Marshall sending Better Than the Rest (27) at Mantis ~ 2010, photo Derek Marshall.
Climbing at Sabaton, Tristan Van Der Merwer 2020. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Martin Renz & Derek Marshall climbing at The Beach, Van Stadens ~ 2003, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Che Freeze climbing at The Beach 2014, photo Derek Marshall.
Tristian working the hard project at Nearly Friday 2020. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Kammie Adams on Peres (23) at Cleopatra ~ 2016, photo Derek Marshall.
Early days at The Beach, Morne van der Mescht. Photo thanks Morne van der Mescht collection.
Jay-d Muller smashing it at Prophet's Cave 2020. Photo courtesy Matt Grunewald.
Clinton Martinengo on the project at Cleo that became Noose (33) ~2018, photo Derek Marshall.
Keith James at The Beach ~2016, photo Derek Marshall.
Early days at The Beach, Morne van der Mescht. Photo thanks Morne van der Mescht collection.
Jay-D on Dale & Tristan's project at Nearly Friday, 2020. Photo thanks Matt Grunewald.
Bouldering at Prophet's Cave, Martin Renz ~2009, photo Derek Marshall.
Night bouldering at Prophet's Cave, Ruan Grundeling ~ 2014. Photo Derek Marshall.
Derek Marshall bouldering at Prophet's Cave, projects 2008, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Blaine Camons having a courtesy spin on the hard project at Nearly Friday. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Alana Changford on Open Book (19) at School Rocks, Woodridge ~ 2016, photo Derek Marshall.
Raven Age of climbing, Gordon Munro ~ 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Luke Cousins climbing at Sabaton 2020. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Night bouldering at Prophet's Cave, Terence on the 6B. Photo Derek Marshall.
Climbing at Sabaton, Tristan Van Der Merwer 2020. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Tyson Baars sends Noodle Salad (18) at Cleo ~ 2017, photo Derek Marshall.
Jay-d Muller smashing it at Prophet's Cave 2020. Photo courtesy Matt Grunewald.
Martin Renz belaying unknown climber on Over Thrust (23) at The Beach, Van Stadens ~ 2004, photo Derek Marshall.
Early days at The Beach, Morne van der Mescht. Photo thanks Morne van der Mescht collection.
Jay-D's sneaky move on the project at Nearly Friday, 2020. Photo thanks Matt Grunewald.
Cam Wesson climbing Founders (20) at Woodridge 2021. Photo thanks Sylvan Renolds.
Climbing at Sabaton, Tristan Van Der Merwer 2020. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Cleo back-in-the-day, the project tat still on the first bolts ~ 2008, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Matt Grunewald on the FA of Mega Rumble (8A) at Prophet's Cave in 2020
Bouldering at Prophet's Cave 2013, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Derek Marshall on the FA of The Bloody Reign of Slayer (23), Slayer Wall 2016, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Bouldering at Prophet's Cave ~ 2008, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Derek Marshall considering the ravens, Raven Age ~ 2016. Photo Derek Marshall collection.
Prophets Cave, Ruan Grundeling 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Fooling around at Platform ~ 2003. Photo courtesy Craig Bester collection.
Tristan working the hard project at Nearly Friday 2020. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Early days at The Beach, Morne van der Mescht. Photo thanks Morne van der Mescht collection.
Climbing the slab next to lower Sabaton. Nelmarie Van Staden (bottom) on Swedish Pagans (21) and Cam Wesson (top) on Screaming eagles (20) 2022. Photo thanks Sylvan Reynolds.
Jay-D's secret beda on the 29 project at Nearly Friday, 2020. Photo thanks Matt Grunewald.
Climbing at Sabaton, Tristan Van Der Merwer 2020. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Bodycore at Prophet's Cave, Jay-d Muller 2020. Photo courtesy Matt Grunewald.
Dale preparing to attempt Hydrophilic (27) 2020. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer.
Sometimes you just got to get out of the boat. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer.
Dale out of the boat. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer.
Hahaha! Swem Jannie Swem! Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer.
Derek Marshall on the FA of Decade of Aggression (22), Slayer Wall 2016, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Che Freeze climbing at Cleopatra 2014, photo Derek Marshall.
Abu-Garvin Jacobs climbing at The Beach 2017. Photo Derek Marshall.
Mike McKecknie enjoying a swim at Van Stadens 2021. Photo Derek Marshall.
Che Freeze climbing at The Beach 2014, photo Derek Marshall.
Jay-D on Dale & Tristan's project at Nearly Friday, 2020. Photo thanks Matt Grunewald.
Brad Twigg & Andy Wesson on their first bolting mission in Van Stadens ~ 1993
Keith James at The Beach ~2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Clinton Martinengo on the project at Cleo that became Noose (33) ~2018. Photo Derek Marshall.
Jay-d Muller bouldering at Prophet's Cave 2020. Photo courtesy Matt Grunewald.
Derek the Monster Marshall bolting at Cleo ~ 2008, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Night bouldering at Prophet's Cave, Terence Travaskis ~ 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Juan-dray Marshall FA sending Better Than the Rest (27) at Mantis ~ 2010. Photo Derek Marshall.
Cam Wesson finishing off Open Book (19) at Woodridge. 2021. Photo thanks Sylvan Renolds.
Blaine Camons having an allowed spin on the hard project at Nearly Friday. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Early days at Prophet's Cave ~ 2007, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Martin Renz climbing at The Beach, Van Stadens ~ 2003. Photo Derek Marshall.
Climbing at Sabaton, Tristan Van Der Merwer 2020. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Derek Marshall on Tekel (22) at Cleopatra ~ 2015, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Morne van der Mescht climbing at The Beach early 2000s. Photo thanks Morne van der Mescht collection.
Che Freeze on Castle Crack (16) Rock Climbing at Woodridge ~ 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Juan-dray Marshall sending Cow's Life at Troll, under the train bridge at Van Stadens ~ 2011. Photo Derek Marshall.
Miracle Man, Jay-d Muller at Prophet's Cave 2020. Photo courtesy Matt Grunewald.
Willem Oosthuisen on Filter or Flavor (26) at The Beach ~ 2014. Photo Derek Marshall.
Climbing at Sabaton, Tristan Van Der Merwer 2020. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Che Freeze sending Metal Minds (19) at Poop Scoop ~ 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Keith James at The Beach ~2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Magnus Wagener on his project at The Beach 2014. Photo Derek Marshall.
Tristian working the hard project at Nearly Friday 2020. Photo courtesy Tristian Van Der Merwer collection.
Nikita...not so deep water bouldering ~ 2017. Photo Derek Marshall.
Derek Marshall on Hunter's Lunch (21) at Cleo ~ 2010, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Derek Marshall on some nasty boulder problem at Prophet's Cave ~ 2008, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Dricus Bezuidenhoudt climbing something at Cleopatra ~ 2008. Photo Derek Marshall.
Derek opening something at Platform ~ 2010, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Che Freeze night bouldering at Prophet's Cave ~ 2014. Photo Derek Marshall.
Matt Grunewald on the FA of Mega Rumble (8A) at Prophet's Cave in 2020
Aurelien Hees sending Filter or Flavor (26) The Beach, Van Stadens ~ 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Dale Gathercole Climbing at Draconian 2017. Photo Derek Marshall.
Sticking it at Prophet's Cave, Jay-d Muller 2020. Photo courtesy Matt Grunewald.
Matt Grunewald on the FA of Mega Rumble (8A) at Prophet's Cave in 2020
Blaine Camons playing on the hard project at Nearly Friday. Photo courtesy Tristan Van Der Merwer collection.
Abu-Garvin Jacobs climbing at The Beach 2017. Photo Derek Marshall.
Joe Mohle climbing Cow's Life at Troll ~ 2008. Photo Derek Marshall.
Sylvan Reynolds climbing at Milestone, 2021 Photo thanks Cam Wesson.
Alana Changfoot bouldering the 6B at Prophet's ~ 2014. Photo Derek Marshall.
2014 Beach crew. Photo Derek Marshall.
Keith James at The Beach ~2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Alana Changford at the chains of Open Book (19) at School Rocks, Woodridge ~ 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Jay-d Muller smashing it at Prophet's Cave 2020. Photo courtesy Matt Grunewald.
Climber on Open Book (19) at School Rocks, Woodridge. Probably the best sport 19 in PE area. Photo Derek Marshall.
Che Freeze climbing at The Beach 2013. Photo Derek Marshall.
Derek drilling the last bolt on ... Morne's shoulders. Back then The Beach had land under the crag & there was a boat to get there. Photo Derek Marshall.
Prophets Cave, Gordon Munro 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Che Freeze leads his first ever trad route, Castle Crack (16) at School Rocks, Woodridge ~ 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Rock climbing at Woodridge School, Che Freeze sends Mobilitate Vincere (22) ~ 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Slacking at Cleo! What happens at Cleo, stays in Cleo! 2021 Photo thanks Cam Wesson collection.
Jay-d Muller smashing it at Prophet's Cave 2020. Photo courtesy Matt Grunewald.
What happens in Van Stadens stays in Van Stadens. Photo Derek Marshall.
Dale Gathercole on Last Days of Ancient Sunlight (19), Draconian ~ 2018. Photo Derek Marshall.
Che Freeze on Mobilitate Vincere (22) a sport line at Woodridge ~ 2016. Photo Derek Marshall.
Mountain Club porn at van Stadens Gorge. Max Chappel Padda Paterson and Colin Wynne. Photo courtesy Mike Streeter collection.
Jay-d Muller taking-it-all-in Prophet's Cave 2020. Photo courtesy Matt Grunewald.
Van Stadens Bouldering - Prophet's Cave - Dricus Dezuidenhoudt on a 7A ~ 2014. Photo Derek Marshall.
Juan-dray Marshall climbing at Platform 2010. Photo Derek Marshall.
Bouldering at Prophet's Cave, Martin Renz ~2009. Photo Derek Marshall.
Working the first route at Platform. Morne van der Mescht climbing Derek Marshall belaying. Photo courtesy Craig Bester collection.
Fooling around at Platform. This ended in a proper swim for Craig & Morne ~ 2003. Photo courtesy Craig Bester collection.
Van Stadens train bridge ~ 1980. Photo courtesy of Werner Illenberger.
Van Stadens Dam ~ 1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Eastern Province Mountain Club meet to climb Van Stadensberg peak ~ 16 Dec 1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Eastern Province Mountain Club meet to climb Van Stadensberg peak ~ 16 Dec 1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Eastern Province Mountain Club, camping & climbing in Van Stadens Gorge 1952. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
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Eastern Province Mountain Club meet to climb Van Stadensberg peak ~ 16 Dec 1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Eastern Province Mountain Club, Peter Bicknel & Harry Yoko camping & climbing in Van Stadens Gorge 1952. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
John Mac Geoghan on Van Stadensberg 16/12/1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Rose Mac Geoghan (née Wood) on Van Stadensberg 16/12/1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Rose Mac Geoghan (née Wood) on Van Stadensberg 16/12/1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Rose Mac Geoghan (née Wood) on Van Stadensberg 16/12/1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Eastern Province Mountain Club trip to Van Stadensberg Peak 16/12/1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Eastern Province Mountain Club trip to Van Stadensberg Peak 16/12/1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Eastern Province Mountain Club trip to Van Stadensberg Peak 16/12/1951, John Mac Geoghan left. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Eastern Province Mountain Club trip to Van Stadensberg Peak 16/12/1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
Eastern Province Mountain Club trip to Van Stadensberg Peak 16/12/1951. Photo courtesy Rob Mac Geoghan collection.
The Beach back-in-the-day. This is after the dam, but before the pine plantation was planted. ~ 1910-1956.
Van Stadens Train Bridge construction ~ 1904
Van Stadens Train Bridge construction ~ 1904
Van Stadens Train Bridge construction ~ 1904
Van Stadens Train Bridge construction ~ 1904
Wagon crossing at Van Stadens Pass.
1959 van Stadens Gorge train bridge. Photo courtesy Mike Streeter collection.
Van Stadens Train Bridge
The Pipe Bridge back-in-the-day, ~1979. Photo courtesy of Mike McKechnie collection.
Wagon crossing at Van Stadens Pass.
Van Stadens Train Bridge construction ~ 1903
Helicopter checking out Cleo 2021. Photo Derek Marshall.
Wagon crossing at Van Stadens Pass.
Van Stadens N2 Bridge construction.
Apple Express on Van Stadens train bridge.
Apple Express on Van Stadens train bridge.
Van Stadens Train Bridge construction ~ 1904
Helicopter (BK) hovering around Cleo 2021. Photo Derek Marshall.
Van Stadens Train Bridge construction. The small train was also used to take coal to the steam pump which was near the pump house. Coal was moved in cocopans from the top of the concrete road. ~ 1904
Derek Marshall climbing at Sabaton 2017, photo Derek Marshall collection.
Wagon crossing Van Stadens.
Apple Express moving cargo on Van Stadens train bridge March1984
Van Stadens Gorge forestry early 2000s. Photo thanks Terence Trevaskis.
Apple Express moving limestone on Van Stadens train bridge May 1973
Van Stadens Train Bridge
Van Stadens Gorge forestry early 2000s. Photo thanks Terence Trevaskis.
Apple Express ~ 1980. Photo courtesy of Werner Illenberger.
Path to The Beach, Van Stadens forestry early 2000s. Photo thanks Terence Trevaskis.
Van Stadens Train Bridge construction ~ 1903
Van Stadens | Rock Climbing
Van Stadens is the Eastern Cape's largest sport climbing area. There are 326 sport routes, 19 of these are still projects or in-progress. There are 217 trad routes. There is fair potential for bolting new sport routes. There are two small bouldering areas with about 15 problems & a few projects. Hardest boulder problem is 8A, PE's only 8A. There are a few deep water boulder spots & one deep water solo route.
Matt Grunewald on FA of Mega Rumble 8A at Prophet's Cave
Matt Grunewald on FA of Torment 7C+ at Prophet's Cave
Tristan Van Der Merwe on Wet Dreams (24), deep water solo
Sabaton, one of the newest crags, is the crag in Van Stadens with the most sport routes. Sabaton has 17 routes at grade 21 & is the best meduim grade sport crag in Port Elizabeth area. Draconian, one of the new crags in Van Stadens & is shaded in summer. There are lots of fun new routes being opened. Slayer the multi-pitch sport crag (double pitch) is the most exiting development at Van Stadens in recent years. FPA that began development in 2024 is the newest crag.
The rock is quartzite. Mostly steep to overhanging. The trad is on average a bit mediocre to poor. Bring a costume in summer. Plenty of swimming spots & some sweet deep water bouldering.
Access
Most of the climbing at Van Stadens is on Nelson Mandela Metro Municipality land. Please be super pleasant and polite to the warden & his staff. This is very important.
The water in the dam is intended for drinking in PE. Please don't piss, wash or fish in the dam! All ablutions to be done on flat ground well away from the dam. Let’s behave very well & keep climbing access open.