Environmental Considerations - Eastern Cape Climbing

There are less than 70 “climbers” in the Eastern Cape. By climbers we mean people who own harness, shoes, chalkbag, put them on & got off the ground once in the last 5 years. Of those 70 climbers there are around 25 active climbers, that is folks who lead or boulder outside, at least one route/problem per month, 12 routes/problems per year. This means that our climbing venues are mostly quite uncrowded & mostly unspoiled. Our climbing numbers are growing, we need to keep our venues unspoiled. We all need to play our small part.

Access for climbers is linked to environmental issues. When we damage our venues we stand a chance of having our access closed.

Leaving Rubbish

Very few climbers leave any of their own rubbish behind. In the EC even our smokers are good at taking their stompies home. But here is the plan, this is how we can make it even better:

1. Set the example & pick up all the rubbish that you come across. Better if you do this on the walk-in…set the tone. Comment loudly that litterers are pigs.
2. Have the conversation, educate, challenge, confront people who litter in our climbing areas. Especially smokers who are new to climbing. Many smokers don’t regard cigarette butts as litter. Ask them while they are still busy smoking if they have a bottle to carry out their butts. Most people fear the embarrassment of being caught littering. Having the conversation one person will send the message to all the others.
3. At the end of the climbing day, the last person to leave the crag, makes a sweep, picking up even tiny scraps of litter. Studies have shown that people are more likely drop litter if they see existing litter.

We can set the culture in our climbing community. Set the norm.

Toilet

1. Dig a small hole away from water, streams & dams. Bury your deposit, cover it with soil, a large stone, with a smaller stone on top. The small stone on top is a sign to other climbers not to dig up your deposit.
2. Farmers drink the water from the streams. When they become sick because people shi* to close to water, we lose access to climb.
3. When a landowner stands in or smells your un-buried shi*, we lose access to climb. Simple.
4. Do not burn your toilet paper. We risk setting the bush alight.
5. Make sure new climbers understand toilet etiquette. Have the conversation, educate, set the norm.

Koi-San-Bushman Rock Art

Many climbing areas were once frequented by Koi-San-Bushman. They sheltered under our overhanging crags. They left us a mysterious legacy of rock art. Rock art is irreplaceable heritage.

1. Point out paintings to new climbers, try to express interest & appreciate their value.
2. Don’t allow people to wet, touch or make fires close to any paintings.
3. Educate, challenge & confront people who deliberately damage or graffiti over Koi-San-Bushman art. This is one of those occasions where violence may be considered acceptable to prevent damage. Call the police & make a case.

Graffiti

Graffiti, including scratching on rock or trees, is not acceptable. Please hep by challenging anyone you see doing any kind of graffiti.

Bolts

All climbing venues in the Eastern Cape embrace mixed use climbing. Bouldering, sport & traditionally protected climbing are potential done at the same venues. The Eastern Cape has a go-ahead culture, opportunities to bolt are available. However:

1. Bolting existing trad routes is considered a bit silly & may result in some unhappiness from the first ascensionist. Bolters should be very familiar with existing routes & consulting the first ascensionist is considered good manners. Box & chop is the rule of the day. If it matters enough to you; box the bolter & chop the bolts.
2. Please don’t bolt stand-alone or tradable routes. Try to only bolt routes that can’t safely be traded. Try to bolt where there are at least 3 sport routes close together. Otherwise you will be wasting bolts (money!) & mostly won’t be thanked.
3. Think before you bolt. Slow down. Try not to squeeze routes.
4. Stainless steel hangers & good quality bolts must be used.
5. Bolt safely. Nobody is impressed by runouts or poorly bolted routes.

Fires

Fires seriously jeopardise access.

1. The Eastern Cape bush is mostly quite dry. This means that fires are a hazard. Make sure that your camp fires are kept under control. Runaway fires will lead to damaged infrastructure. Fences, buildings, grazing & livestock all equal money. When a farmer is impacted financially, he can’t be blamed for simply closing access for climbing.
2. Don’t make fires near San/Bushman paintings.
3. Try to stick to one campfire spot in a wild campsite.
4. Fires lead to harvesting of wood. Carry in braai wood to popular wild campsites.
5. We don’t want to encourage non-climbers to braai at the crags. Braais lead to beers. Beers lead to bottles. Bottles break, then there is glass at the crag.